So, I’d been planning my trip to Gyeongju all week.  I was totally pumped because Gyeongju was the capitol of Korea during the Silla Dynasty (57 B.C. – 935 A.D.).  The Silla Dynasty (pronounced shilla) is the longest sustained dynasty in Asian history.  [More history after the jump...]

When I got to the bus station (very proud of myself for having directed the taxi in Korean), I bought my ticket.  I specifically said “Gyeongju”… but somehow, I ended up in Yeongju.  I was actually quite annoyed because I had taken special precaution to enunciate clearly and loudly as I had feared this might happen.

So, after arriving in Yeongju, I promptly got back on another bus and went to Daegu to search out the Outback Steakhouse I had seen on a prior visit… allowing myself to regroup while eating butter for the first time in two months.

After that I ran into two American servicemen drinking soju on the sidewalk at 1pm.  They continued to pursue conversation  (belts, soju, vacation, TV) despite the fact that there was absolutely no chance we might ever have anything worthwhile to say to one another.

I then proceeded to the “Lotte Department Store.”  This is basically an 8 floor mall with everything from Gucci to the Tommy Hilfiger.  And in addition to the stares that say “you’re-the-only-white-person-here” I was also graced with the up-and-down looks that say “you-look-like-you’re-going-hiking-in-Gyeongju-and-you-are-NOT-supposed-to-wear-those-clothes-when-you-are-shopping!”

I also have this habit of putting my sunglasses on my head when I’m inside.  This works well for me as a person, but not so much for my looks as it makes my hair stick out on the sides… all day.  So, I basically looked like a bum with hair going in every direction.

Then, I bought my third bus ticket of the day and finally made it to Gyeongju.  It was wonderful.  It was beautiful.  I’m so glad I didn’t give up, which I was this close to doing while I was gorging on my Outback mystery meat covered in Korean sauces.

The photos you see are the tombs of the Kings, Queens, and noblemen of the Silla Dynasty.  The tombs are the enormous mounds you see.  They were actually quite stunning to see in real life… I don’t think the pictures do them justice.

You can see the full set here.

Three Kingdoms at the end of the 5th Century

MORE HISTORY: During this time, Silla maintained close contact with the Tang Dynasty of China, thereby infusing many Chinese cultural traits — including books, art, Buddhism, and Confucianism.

Also, in 668, King Munmu became the first leader to unify the peninsula (before this time, there were three kingdoms).

And last but certainly not least — it is during this time that we have the earliest evidence of woodblock printing.  A Buddhist sutra was discovered inside of the Pagoda That Casts No Shadows dating from 751.  Please note that Europe did not replicate this feat until around 1440…

Related posts:

1. Cheomseongdae Observatory
2. Anapji
3. Donghwasa Temple